Scallop Ceviche with Mango

Large scallops sliced thin and marinated 30 minutes in lime and orange juice with fresh chili, cilantro and green onion, until opaque. Served cold with fresh mango and tortilla chips. Eight ingredients, no heat, half an hour in the fridge.

Almost every country in South America claims ceviche, from Peruvian fishermen to the coasts of Mexico and Chile, each with its own version. I skip the debate and make mine with scallops, in the simplest way I know.

• 8 to 10 large scallops
• Juice of 1 lime
• Juice of ½ orange
• 1 fresh chili pepper
• A few sprigs of cilantro and 2 green onions
• Salt and black pepper
• 1 ripe mango
• Tortillas or corn chips, to serve

Serves two to three as a starter.

1. If the scallops are frozen, thaw them in the fridge. Slice them thin: they marinate faster this way and still keep their texture.
2. Mix the lime and orange juice. Add the chili, seeds and membranes removed and chopped fine, the cilantro and the green onions, thinly sliced. Season with salt and pepper.
3. Pour the marinade over the scallops so they are completely covered and put them in the fridge for 30 minutes.
4. Arrange the scallops on plates, spoon over some of the marinade, and serve with slices of mango and tortillas or corn chips. Grapefruit or lemon can stand in for the lime and orange if you prefer them.

I slice the scallops thin because the citrus acid only works a millimeter or two deep: it firms the edges and turns them opaque while the center stays silky. Thirty minutes is the maximum; longer, and the acid keeps breaking the proteins down until the flesh turns chalky. Orange juice balances the sharpness of the lime with its own sugar. Fresh chili gives a clean heat, cilantro and green onion the green, sharp notes, and the mango on the plate answers the acid with sweetness and a cool, smooth texture against the firm scallop. The chips add the crunch.

The citrus changes the texture, but it does not heat or sterilize the flesh, so treat ceviche as raw seafood. Buy scallops meant to be eaten raw from a fishmonger you trust, keep them cold, make the ceviche the day you buy them and serve it cold, soon after marinating.

No. Past 30 minutes the acid keeps working and the scallop turns tough and chalky.

Yes: shrimp, snapper or halibut, sliced thin, marinated the same way; shrimp takes a little longer.

Mild, with the seeds removed. For more heat, leave a few seeds in.

Mango slices, tortilla chips or a warm tortilla, and a cold drink; it is a starter, not a main.

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Sources: U.S. Food and Drug Administration, Selecting and Serving Fresh and Frozen Seafood Safely, fda.gov.