Kabocha Squash Steaks with Chimichurri

A thick slice of kabocha squash, seared in a heavy skillet until the cut side is deep brown, finished in the oven until the center is soft, and topped with a sharp green chimichurri of parsley, garlic and vinegar. Six ingredients, one pan, and a squash that eats like a steak.

• 1 kabocha squash (about 2 lb), cut into 2 steaks, 1 inch thick, through the center; butternut works too, peeled
• 4 tablespoons extra virgin olive oil: 2 for the squash, 2 for the sauce
• 1 bunch flat-leaf parsley, leaves and thin stems
• 2 garlic cloves
• 2 tablespoons sherry vinegar, or red wine vinegar
• A pinch of dried oregano, salt, black pepper

Serves two. That is the whole list.

1. Cut a thin slice off one side of the squash so it sits flat, then cut two 1-inch steaks through the center. Scoop out the seeds. Kabocha skin is thin and edible; if you use butternut, peel it first.
2. Salt both sides and rub with 2 tablespoons of oil.
3. Heat a cast-iron or other heavy, oven-safe skillet over medium heat. Lay the steaks in and leave them alone: 5 to 7 minutes per side, until the cut side is deep golden brown.
4. Move the skillet to a 375°F oven for 10 to 12 minutes, until a knife slides into the center with no resistance.
5. While it bakes, make the chimichurri: chop the parsley and garlic finely, stir in the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil, the vinegar, a pinch of oregano, salt and pepper.
6. Spoon the sauce over the hot steaks and serve right away, as a side to roast chicken or beef, or as a main with yogurt and grains.

A thick cut on a hot, dry pan browns: the sugars in the squash caramelize into a crust with deep, almost nutty notes. Cubes crowd the pan and steam in their own moisture, so they rarely get there; a flat steak sears, and the steam escapes. The oven then softens the center until it is melting while the crust stays. The chimichurri works on the other side: the vinegar cuts the sweetness and makes your mouth water, and the raw garlic and fresh parsley send a sharp green aroma up through the back of your nose as you chew. Sweet, dense squash against a sour, bright sauce is why the second bite tastes as good as the first.

Yes. Peel it first: butternut skin stays tough, while kabocha skin softens in the oven.

Any heavy oven-safe skillet works. If yours is not oven-safe, sear the steaks and move them to a baking sheet.

A knife slides into the center with no resistance. If not, give it 3 more minutes.

Yes, up to a day in the fridge. The vinegar softens the raw bite of the garlic overnight, so the sauce gets smoother, not stronger.

Both. Next to roast chicken or steak it is a side; with a spoon of yogurt and grains it is dinner.

I am Marina Staver, a private chef in Miami and South Florida. I cook dinners in people's homes: birthdays, anniversaries, dinner parties, quiet evenings for two on a Wednesday. I plan the menu around what you actually like, shop for it, cook it in your kitchen and leave it clean.

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Sources: Kroh L.W., “Caramelisation in food and beverages”, Food Chemistry, 1994, doi:10.1016/0308-8146(94)90188-0.